I have just dug out my diary for the school trip to Rome, by train in July August 1970 - the first time I had ever been abroad. I notice I read Chaucer on the way out and Mansfield Park on the way back. I noted when the train crossed the Alps at Airolo " At once noticed different houses -shutters, vines and crumbling facades."
I began my life long habit of making liturgical notes Sunday in St Peter's "Mass behind High Altar, Choral with incense and procession (dumpy men with lace suplices and black hats, 3 men in red, cardinals?)" I knew far less on the subject than I do now.
Castel San Angelo "Atmospherically gloomy passages. Charming courtyards. Dungeons and oil stoves. Very morbid and great fun." Encounter with vendor at the Trevi Fountain "Gazed at some cameos and handled one. Vendor pressed it in my hands. "Two tausend lire! A cameo! Look". (He held it to the sun.) I looked dubious. "You American? 1500!" I looked even more dubious. "1000" he said pressing frantically into my hand. I paid up."
Santa Maria d'Aracoeli I noted that the "bambino more tasteful than that in S. Andrea", but commented that Il Gesu was a vulgar church., but of San Andrea al Quirinale "for all its coloured marble, cherubs, etc: it is all beautifully controlled."
At the Villa Borghese, I noted that Caravaggio's Boy with Fruit had marvellous brushwork.
And Aida at the Baths of Caracalla "Clapping at end of all numbers, plenty of curtain calls at each curtain and a cry of Brava for the contralto at end of Act 4, Sc 1. Nothing if not spectacular, which is right for so vast a stage - a camel in Act 3 for no reason. 3 ballets scenes and in Act 2 Sc 2 eight horses all together, who on both their entrances left deposits calling for a stage hand with pan, brush and Egyptian costume."