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Author Topic: What Don Basilio did on his holidays  (Read 1581 times)
pim_derks
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« Reply #60 on: 17:04:38, 01-10-2008 »

Many thanks for the pictures, d-b. It's a beautiful church! Smiley
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MrY
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« Reply #61 on: 22:54:39, 01-10-2008 »

A brief aside in order to defend the virtues and vices of my home country…  Roll Eyes Wink

First of all: there is no such thing as the Flemish countryside  Wink.  Or rather, what one could call ‘the Flemish countryside’ is carefully divided into little patches, and cunningly hidden between the houses. 

In the 50’s and 60’s there was no real legislation for structuring residential areas, rural areas, etc… other than the simple rule that allowed houses to be built, wherever there was a street, be it in a suburb or in the middle of the countryside.  Result: every main road through the countryside has two neat rows of houses on both sides and behind it, carefully hidden: untouched countryside.  There’s a word for it in Dutch: ‘lintbebouwing’, which one could translate as ‘ribbon building’.  We’re quite famous for it (or should I say ‘infamous’).


This is a good example, but unfortunately this is Holland! 

Flanders is more like this:


(The white blurb on the horizon is Brussels.)

I love the full-built and checkered nature of Flanders. Always little corners, little bits, little groups of trees, hedges, dirt roads, huts, houses…  It makes me feel cosy and protected.  Driving through the north of France (the Champagne-Ardennes district) on the way home from a trip to the south of France, I was astounded by the total emptiness of the countryside.  How eerie that is.  Miles and miles of fields, with sometimes a lone industrial complex at the horizon, and every now and then a village.  I wondered how you could live in a village like that, so totally cut off from everything. 
In Flanders you could never be alone.  Whatever way you set out, you will never be lost in the middle of nowhere.  You’ll always be somewhere.  (And there will probably be a café there as well.  I must say, I do like Holland because of its strict separation of ‘nature’ and ‘village’ or ‘city’, the countryside is very broad and beautiful!  But oh, how you can cycle miles and miles through it, from church tower to church tower, in search of a café to ease your thirst, and find nothing…)

Then, you mention the concrete streets.  I didn’t know we still had a lot of those, but it brought back some childhood memories. I remember my very first journey to a foreign country, with my parents and my brother on the bus, listening to a conversation some man had with the bus driver.  He celebrated the virtues of concrete roads, so many years they’ve been lying there, and still not one driving mark.  I felt secretly proud of them.  I also remember the continuous little bumps you felt, going over the ridges, when driving home by night after visiting some friends, my parents talking in the front of the car, going over every detail of the evening, me in the back only half awake, the big, white moon above us…

I take it you have travelled on the provincial roads, DonB… There’s something strange about provincial roads in Flanders.  There so lonely, so empty, so grey, somber, so unhabitable and still people live, walk, buy on them.  I can’t really describe it.   I should take some pictures of lonely provincial roads now that the weather is grey and autumnal to give you an idea.  But if these are the roads you’ve travelled on, DonB, I can understand your dismay…

I should say, if you’d have liked to see something of what’s left of the Flemish countryside, you’d better had taken the motorways… They sometimes cross the more uninhabited bits…  The drive from Brussels to Ostend isn’t too bad, especially more up north, in the flat country. 

But to make up for your awful journey, I've you made a little guide to the secluded corners of the Flemish countryside.  (I post this as a separate thread because so many photos take a lot of time to load and I do not want to slow down this thread for everyone.)

Edited to make the link work.
« Last Edit: 23:01:03, 01-10-2008 by MrY » Logged
Don Basilio
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« Reply #62 on: 10:22:17, 02-10-2008 »

Thank you, Mr Y, for that.  I'm glad to hear from you.  And glad to hear your enthusiasm.  You'll notice I mentioned you when I was making fun of our awful journey.  Thank you.
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A time to weep, and a time to laugh: a time to mourn, and a time to dance
Don Basilio
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« Reply #63 on: 10:58:46, 02-10-2008 »

Die Wies is by Dominkus Zimmermann from 1745.

We also saw Vierzehnheiligen by Balthasar Newmann, almost contemporary.  This is in northern Bavaria, in the area of Franconia, overlooking the River Main.  The Fourteen Saints of the title are those saints who are supposed to be Helpers in Need (Nothelfer) who appeared together with the Christ Child to shepherds in a vision on the spot in the 1440s.

The Nothelfer include some saints the Vatican has since removed as spurious, Margaret, Catherine and Christopher at least.

The site of the vision is marked by the following amazing structure in the centre of the church



St Barbara with her tower is above the altar in the centre.  To the left a bit above her is St Vitus, with a cross.  The free standing figure on the right is St Blaise, with his crossed candles.  The stag on the right is for St Giles on the other side.  (All fourteen saints are depicted, seven on each side, one in the middle on each side and three groups of four, one group free standing at the corner, one on a level with the altars, and one round the structure's roof.)
« Last Edit: 15:41:43, 02-10-2008 by Don Basilio » Logged

To every thing there is a season, and a time to every purpose under heaven.
A time to weep, and a time to laugh: a time to mourn, and a time to dance
Antheil
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« Reply #64 on: 17:59:36, 02-10-2008 »

Don Basilio, that is absolutely fantastic!!  At first I didn't even notice the altar, it seems to be dwarfed.  So there are 4 altars, I presume used simultaneously for Communion or separately at different times of Liturgical year?   What would be the capacity of the Church?  Can we see some more photos of it please, beautiful pastel colours it seems.
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Don Basilio
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« Reply #65 on: 22:54:53, 02-10-2008 »

As far as I can make out there are three altars round the shrine, with one side allowing you to get close and see the star in the floor marking the spot where the vision is supposed to have taken place, underneath the construction.

My battery in the camera ran out when I was in the church here.  I will post some another pikkie tomorrow, after I have returned from my visit to King's Cross' answer to Bayreuth to listen religiously to one of Martin Butler's chamber work, as recommended to me a eleven months ago by a board member.
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« Reply #66 on: 23:08:45, 02-10-2008 »

Don B, it reminds me of some exquisite Meissan pottery!
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Don Basilio
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« Reply #67 on: 13:24:22, 03-10-2008 »

I hadn't thought of the Messiaen Meissan  comparison, but of course it is the same country and century.

Here is St Erasmus, with his windlass at his side, with which his guts were wound out of him.  (This is the drawing part of the punishment of being hung, drawn and quartered.)



The overall view of the interior from the web is as follows (you can see how the shrine relates to the main altar)



The recitals at Kings Place were very enjoyable.
« Last Edit: 21:54:07, 04-10-2008 by Don Basilio » Logged

To every thing there is a season, and a time to every purpose under heaven.
A time to weep, and a time to laugh: a time to mourn, and a time to dance
Don Basilio
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« Reply #68 on: 14:57:43, 03-10-2008 »

And a final, churchy, German picture for this thead

Bayreuth is not the only small town in Bavaria with a Festspeilhaus with what some would consider an unduly limited repeterory

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To every thing there is a season, and a time to every purpose under heaven.
A time to weep, and a time to laugh: a time to mourn, and a time to dance
Antheil
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« Reply #69 on: 17:54:58, 03-10-2008 »

When I said Meissen porcelain (except I foolishly wrote pottery!) I was thinking of something like this



A Meissen teapot dating 1725-1730.

Looking forward to the next episode of your travels.
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Reality, sa molesworth 2, is so sordid it makes me shudder
Don Basilio
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« Reply #70 on: 21:22:58, 03-10-2008 »

OK, South of the Alps now, and five miles from the Slovenian border, here at the town of Cormons in Italy, region of Friuli, province of Gorizia, is the church of Santa Caterina da Siena, aka the Sanctuario della Rosa Mistica (ie the shrine of Our Lady, the Mystic Rose.)


The statue in front is of the Emperor Maxillian, as I deduce this border territory was at some stage part of the Holy Roman Empire.  Any one like to comment on that please?  The cathedral was dedicated to San Adalberto, Bishop of Praga, which implies further Middle European connections.

This photo is intended to introduce the thoroughly secular goings-on in Cormons that day, the reason for the crowds milling around, under a Tiepolo or Canaletto blue sky.
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pim_derks
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« Reply #71 on: 08:26:47, 04-10-2008 »

I like churches with two towers. We don't see them very often in the Netherlands.
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Don Basilio
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« Reply #72 on: 18:31:28, 04-10-2008 »

Twin towers crop up quite frequently in Baroque German churches.  Vierzehnheilgen has a very impressive pair, but my battery had run out.

Back in Italy, the town of Cormons was celebrating its Festa dell'Uve, festival of grapes, when we were there.  The climax was a procession, which although completely secular, was based on generations of Italian experience of religious processions, with all the community participation, flair, style, and generosity of spirit combined with the haziest ideas of time keeping and overall organisation which at times seems to characterise the country.

The floats were entered by local grape growers and wine producers.  Here is one of them.


The water mill, needless to say, was going round.
« Last Edit: 21:54:55, 04-10-2008 by Don Basilio » Logged

To every thing there is a season, and a time to every purpose under heaven.
A time to weep, and a time to laugh: a time to mourn, and a time to dance
Don Basilio
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« Reply #73 on: 14:18:47, 05-10-2008 »

Cormons is in a fine wine growing area.  One of the local grapes is/was called Tocai Friuliano.  (Friuli is the regions of Italy.)  This is now to be renamed Friulian.  (Tokay itself is a fabulously rare and expensive Hungarian wine, which I have never tasted.)  So one of the entries was the funeral of Tokai Friuliano.

First of all came the altar boys (which is more than you will see nowadays at Sunday mass in Italy)



Then came the hearse, with a big bottle in place of a coffin, attended by undertakers in black hats

The hearse was pulled by a tractor driven by a cardinal


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Kittybriton
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Thank you for the music ...


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« Reply #74 on: 15:15:12, 05-10-2008 »

The statue in front is of the Emperor Maxillian, as I deduce this border territory was at some stage part of the Holy Roman Empire.  Any one like to comment on that please?
From my notes:
Maximilian I, crowned emperor by Julius II in 1493, and effectively founder of the Hapsburg dynasty (although Dad, Frederick III might have had something to do with establishing the line) was nothing if not an empire-builder. His court had to have the best of everything; artwork by Albrecht Durer, music by Heinrich Isaak.
The Holy Roman Emperor was traditionally crowned by the Pope but Julius II ceded the right to Maximilian to style himself Emperor without being present at his own coronation (coronation by proxy?)
In 1437 he married Mary of Burgundy, conveniently annexing the Further Netherlands (there's more to this story, but it's not really relevant here), and after her death in 1484, he married Bianca Maria Sforza, daughter of the duke of Milan, which presumably gained him more territory...
« Last Edit: 15:19:40, 05-10-2008 by Kittybriton » Logged

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