As some of you will know, I recently enjoyed a brief visit to Armenia.
Didn't really know what to expect, but I loved it! I only got to see the capital (Yerevan) but, from what I could gather, its a very proud country that's determined to rise above the poor hand it has been dealt by history. Despite appalling government corruption (the current President is apparently an old school friend of Vladimir Putin) and some of the worst neighbours (Turkey and Iran) any country could have, it continues to hold its head high and hope for better days.....I sincerely hope that they come soon. Although Armenians supposedly look back on the communist era as a 'golden age', this is not a country that has had its soul destroyed by state socialism.
I managed to take in an opera while I was there....a piece of local colour called 'Anush' by one Aprmen Tigranyan, of whom I'd never heard before. There was no info in my programme about the composer, whom I've yet to google, but I'd say the piece could date from any time between 1860 and 1930. It wasn't at all memorable, being the usual fluff about gypsies and rustic chivalry, padded out with interminable ballets. However, it was good to see a piece of the home product - equally interesting was the behaviour of the audience. I'd been warned about Armenian opera audiences beforehand - and it was all true. The opera began 20 minutes late, when the auditorium was full-ish. We then got to stand for the national anthem, which some members of the audience sang along to. Once the opera began, people continued with their conversations (though never to the point where it seriously interfered with the music), took photos (a couple of people were filming the whole thing on home movie cameras) and made and received mobile phone calls. At Covent Garden, of course, they'd have been lynched and I did find it rather annoying...still, it was an experience, and what else is travel for?
A concert by the Armenian Philharmonic was going on elsewhere in the buildling, as well as numerous bits of theatre and chamber music. Very enterprising for the small capital of a small country! And, I noticed, the opera itself was sponsored by a trade union.....can you seriously imagine the TUC sponsoring a production at Covent Garden?!
All told, I had a great time. Anyone who finds themselves in this part of the world would be well advised to check out Armenia!