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Author Topic: Impressions of European cities  (Read 1248 times)
John W
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« on: 00:56:10, 26-03-2007 »

This is the best attempt I can make to extract these messages from another thread. On this forum you can only spilt a topic into two pieces, can't pick out individual messages to make another topic.


So,


harmonyharmony wrote:
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I hated Vienna when I visited it. Most of it smells of horse wee, it's too big and imposing, and there are just too many multi-national shops.

richard barret: wrote:
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Really? I'm rather fond of it myself. Compared to most European capitals it's quite small - and they all have the same shops anyway. There are several very good concert halls, as you'd expect, museums (especially the wonderful Sezession), a festival of contemporary music that puts most others to shame, several good friends of mine (not much of an attraction to you, of course), some of my favourite eating establishments, and more dead composers than you can shake a stick at.


Ian Pace wrote:
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Those are rather the sorts of things one notices as a brief visitor to the place. From the impression I've got (including what I know from friends who live there, including Austrians) it is small but also a provincially-minded city, in which an old moneyed elite continues to have power over most fields of life, in which in the higher echelons of society anti-semitism is still rife (acceptable in a way that it would never be in Germany); there is a deep and aggressive distrust of foreigners in much of Viennese society, something that can be felt from just walking into an average cafe, and which is adorned with the rather kitschy products of a culture industry writ large (in which 'Mozart-themed' or 'Schubert-themed' paraphenalia are everywhere). As well as being a massively patriarchal society (it's not for nothing that this is the only present-day place where a phenomenon like the Vienna Philharmonic could still exist in its current form). Many of the least admirable elements of an old feudal Europe join forces with a remorseless commercialism. And, outside of the new music festivals and a few other places, musical life is extremely conservative, utterly dominated by star performers and run-of-the-mill programming of the classics.

Its history (like that of many European cities) is not too great either......

tonybob wrote
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wow - you picked up a lot from a brief visit - what i picked up from my all too brief visit, was, yes, a town where mozart's balls are king, but some of the friendliest, most patient people in the world; they'd have to be, putting up with my Michel Thomas deutsch.
Not to mention the Haus der Musik, Hundertwasser Haus,Musikverein, the Staatsoper etc etc, history everywhere you look (the graveyard is spectacular!)
I would go again and again given the chance, and i think your analysis rather over critical.

Ian Pace wrote:
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I've been there quite a few times, but I'm basing my opinion equally on what I hear from people there and what I've read about the place. So as to try and get away from a tourist view of the place (I would hardly categorise London in terms of the equivalent things in that city to those you and Richard mostly list about Vienna).

richard barrett wrote:
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Naschmarkt is a long thin "market square", and Kettenbrückengasse is a small street that goes off it to the left (next to the U-Bahn station named after it) if you're walking away from the centre.

Ian, I've spent quite a bit of time there over the years, actually, and I would say I know my way around it reasonably well. I don't have any evidence which would tell me whether antisemitism is more prevalent there than elsewhere in central Europe (certainly not among the Viennese people I know) and I have never experienced this "deep and aggressive distrust of foreigners in much of Viennese society, something that can be felt from just walking into an average cafe". The official culture is indeed quite conservative on the whole (apart from the Wien Modern festival and various things that take place under the auspices of "Kunstradio" at the ORF), but one doesn't really need to take much notice of that in view of the fact that there's so much else going on outside it. Which just goes to show how different impressions of the same place can be.

Ian Pace wrote:
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Well, there are only 8000 Jewish people in the whole of Austria, most of them in Vienna, but I remember reading some articles saying how shockingly prevalent and shameless anti-semitic sentiments were in the higher echelons of Viennese society. And there have been various studies on xenophobia in Austria, prevalent in Vienna as well as the rest of the country (Haider's support was not just in the rural areas). Also, average wage-differences between men and women have hardly shifted in 20 years, in distinction to the rest of Western Europe. 

opilec wrote:
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I'd echo Richard's views. Maybe I'm just lucky with the cafés I go in, but I've never felt the "deep and aggressive distrust of foreigners" that Ian refers to.  As a bit of a scruff, I usually gravitate towards Café Hawelka, which (when it's not stupidly busy) is a great place to relax in, and I've never felt out of place.  That there's anti-Semitism around I don't doubt, but more than in some places in East Germany, for instance?  Of course, the polite veneer and conservative pretensions can sometimes be obvious, but there are plenty of other things to occupy oneself with instead.  I stopped worrying about not being as "well-dressed" as the Viennese years ago.  And, of course, it's perfectly possible to love and hate a place at the same time: reading between the lines, that seems to have been Klemperer's view, and he kept going back!

Concerning Haider, the biggest demonstrations against him and his party were, I believe, in ... Vienna.


Ian Pace wrote:
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Café Hawelka, as the café where where, amongst others, the fanatically anti-Austrian Thomas Bernhard used to hang out, may be rather atypical to say the least. The more routine cafes, people there tell me, are very closed places where foreigners are frequently not welcome. East Germany, or for that matter much of Eastern Europe, where there is much less of a tradition of multi-culturalism and non-white immigration, is a different matter. The demonstrations in Vienna against Haider were significant, but 20% of the Viennese voted for him in 1999, which went down only to 15% in 2001.
« Last Edit: 11:03:57, 26-03-2007 by John W » Logged
Ian Pace
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« Reply #1 on: 01:05:17, 26-03-2007 »

I'll just add a few links, on Austrian society in general, but with bits about Vienna:

http://www.hagalil.com/archiv/2001/02/oesterreich.htm (an article from Searchlight)
http://www.axt.org.uk/antisem/countries/austria/austria.htm (an article from Anti-Semitism and Xenophobia Today)
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'These acts of keeping politics out of music, however, do not prevent musicology from being a political act . . .they assure that every apolitical act assumes a greater political immediacy' - Philip Bohlman, 'Musicology as a Political Act'
Ian Pace
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« Reply #2 on: 02:08:43, 26-03-2007 »

I don't see how multi-culturalism is "much less of a tradition" in the rest of Eastern Europe, particularly its capitals: Warsaw before the Horrors? (To take an obvious example.)  Though Vienna has always been a bit of a crossroads, and thus something of a melting pot: how well the ingredients mix is, of course, another matter.

Quickly on this point - most of Eastern Europe has no tradition in modern times of the incorporation and integration of large numbers of non-European immigrants, as is the case in most of the former colonial countries (and to a lesser extent others in Western Europe). The tensions between different European nationalities are of course very significant (the situation in former Yugoslavia amply demonstrates that), but the integration (by which in no sense do I mean 'assmiliation') of peoples from more radically different cultural backgrounds is another level of transformation for a society. And we're still along way off that in a lot of Western Europe, though some sort of multiculturalism does at least seem to have made a little progress. When the numbers of non-Caucasians in public life roughly resemble their percentage of the respective populations, then we will have come some way. In countries with very strongly defined national identity, it is often found harder for non-Europeans to be able to integrate and progress. Actually, I'd like to believe we're not quite as bad in this respect in Britain as some other places - being 'British' as a term doesn't have quite such strong ethnic connotations as, say, being 'French' does (apparently you would never say algérien-français in the same way as you might say 'Black British', and that is true in most continental countries). Though of course that situation may well change in a backwards direction, and certainly right-wing politicians would like it to.

Also note that extreme nationalism and the far right are rapidly on the increase in a lot of Eastern Europe.
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'These acts of keeping politics out of music, however, do not prevent musicology from being a political act . . .they assure that every apolitical act assumes a greater political immediacy' - Philip Bohlman, 'Musicology as a Political Act'
Ian Pace
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« Reply #3 on: 02:15:48, 26-03-2007 »

Ian Pace wrote:
Ian, a downwards trend is nevertheless at least in the right direction, n'est-ce pas? By the 2006 elections, Haider and his faction had split from the FPÖ (which received 11.04% of the vote), forming a new party, the BZÖ (4.11%).  The Greens received 11.05%.  The Social Democrats now lead a "grand coalition" with the Austrian People's Party.

Of course this is a positive move. However, numerous studies have shown the prevalence of casual racism, anti-semitism and xenophobia in Austria throughout the period of the Second Republic, which never really had to undergo the type of cultural and political transformation that occurred in Germany (after being able to portray themselves as 'the Nazis' first victims', conveniently erasing memories of the massed cheering crowds as the tanks arrived in Vienna). Of course those things are true in much of the rest of Europe as well, but I believe especially pronouncedly so in Austria. The right-wing tabloid Neuen Kronenzeitung feeds such sentiments on a regular basis.

Quote
Of other Viennese cafés I've been in (and I tend to avoid the more opulent, bland or touristy ones, as I would over here), I've never encountered an unwelcoming one, though some of the waiters certainly have a slightly de haut en bas attitude which could be misinterpreted: I've never found it remotely sinister. There are pubs local to me here in Nottingham that I've found considerably less welcoming.  I don't know what or where these "more routine cafes" you mention are: maybe you could find out from the people who told you? I tend to take my "impressions" from my own experiences, rather than what I've been told by others, however well-informed.  Maybe, in my enthusiasm for the coffee or walking the same streets as LvB, the hostility that I, as a foreigner, aroused in the locals passed me by?  I also don't know what you mean by Café Hawelka being "atypical" - it's very well-known, and you can buy postcards of it if you're so minded.  But then, I'm now no longer sure what a "typical" Viennese café would be.  I'll have a look out next month ...

Sure, I'm talking about a general impression from wandering into the less upmarket cafes in various parts of the cities, which I was told is most typical. I haven't read any more detailed studies on contemporary Viennese cafe society, but would be interested. I feel that if Café Hawelka had been typical, Bernhard would never have set foot in it by any means. This was the man who hated Austria so much that he forbade any of his books to be published there.

Wondered if you knew this site? http://www.freewebs.com/vienna-actionists/
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'These acts of keeping politics out of music, however, do not prevent musicology from being a political act . . .they assure that every apolitical act assumes a greater political immediacy' - Philip Bohlman, 'Musicology as a Political Act'
Ian Pace
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« Reply #4 on: 02:17:47, 26-03-2007 »

Last thing to add - I do know of one person who suffers from cerebal palsy who apparently found, uniquely in Vienna, that people would often laugh at him in the streets for his disability.
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'These acts of keeping politics out of music, however, do not prevent musicology from being a political act . . .they assure that every apolitical act assumes a greater political immediacy' - Philip Bohlman, 'Musicology as a Political Act'
time_is_now
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« Reply #5 on: 09:47:18, 26-03-2007 »

Actually, I'd like to believe we're not quite as bad in this respect in Britain as some other places - being 'British' as a term doesn't have quite such strong ethnic connotations as, say, being 'French' does (apparently you would never say algérien-français in the same way as you might say 'Black British', and that is true in most continental countries).
That is, in theory at least, because once accepted as French you are French, not Black French or Algerian French or any other subcategory thereof. (Contrary to the British obsession with measuring ethnic minority shares in everything, it's illegal in a French census to ask people questions about their ethnic background.)
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« Reply #6 on: 12:43:07, 26-03-2007 »

Actually, I'd like to believe we're not quite as bad in this respect in Britain as some other places - being 'British' as a term doesn't have quite such strong ethnic connotations as, say, being 'French' does (apparently you would never say algérien-français in the same way as you might say 'Black British', and that is true in most continental countries).
That is, in theory at least, because once accepted as French you are French, not Black French or Algerian French or any other subcategory thereof. (Contrary to the British obsession with measuring ethnic minority shares in everything, it's illegal in a French census to ask people questions about their ethnic background.)

There was a Conservative election poster in the 1980s that had a picture of a man of African/Afro-Caribbean origin, saying 'Labour call him black. We call him British'. Don't want to go there, whether or not the French do. I know how many times people are asked about ethnicity, in job applications and so on, but in fairness, those questions are at least in principle use so as to monitor racial equality or inequality.
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'These acts of keeping politics out of music, however, do not prevent musicology from being a political act . . .they assure that every apolitical act assumes a greater political immediacy' - Philip Bohlman, 'Musicology as a Political Act'
time_is_now
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« Reply #7 on: 13:14:19, 26-03-2007 »

There was a Conservative election poster in the 1980s that had a picture of a man of African/Afro-Caribbean origin, saying 'Labour call him black. We call him British'. Don't want to go there, whether or not the French do.
Me neither, especially, though I can't help noting with a wry grin that the media-conscious 21st-century Tory party would presumably be told by its advertising moguls to phrase it 'We call you British' ...

'Him' indeed. That was meant to make people feel included was it?!

Quote
I know how many times people are asked about ethnicity, in job applications and so on, but in fairness, those questions are at least in principle use so as to monitor racial equality or inequality.
I think you misunderstood my point. I wasn't saying the French way is better than the English way - by no means. I actually think the only likely result of brushing the issue of ethnic background under the carpet is indeed more, rather than less, discrimination. I was just pointing out what seems to be a little-known fact about the French way of doing things, and that most of these conventions and customs can be seen in at least two ways.
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The city is a process which always veers away from the form envisaged and desired, ... whose revenge upon its architects and planners undoes every dream of mastery. It is [also] one of the sites where Dasein is assigned the impossible task of putting right what can never be put right. - Rob Lapsley
Ian Pace
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« Reply #8 on: 13:36:43, 26-03-2007 »

There was a Conservative election poster in the 1980s that had a picture of a man of African/Afro-Caribbean origin, saying 'Labour call him black. We call him British'. Don't want to go there, whether or not the French do.
Me neither, especially, though I can't help noting with a wry grin that the media-conscious 21st-century Tory party would presumably be told by its advertising moguls to phrase it 'We call you British' ...

'Him' indeed. That was meant to make people feel included was it?!

Just checked up on that - it was from the 1983 campaign, made by Saatchi and Saatchi, and I got the wording slightly wrong - it was 'Labour say he's black. We say he's British' (not that that changes much). Can't find an image of it online, alas (when I'm in the library I'll see if it's reproduced in any books and if so, scan it in and post it). Still it's an improvement on the 1960s, when Tory candidate Peter Griffiths, in the 1964 Smethwick by-election, used as his election slogan 'If you want a n**ger for a neighbour, vote Liberal or Labour'. Sad

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'These acts of keeping politics out of music, however, do not prevent musicology from being a political act . . .they assure that every apolitical act assumes a greater political immediacy' - Philip Bohlman, 'Musicology as a Political Act'
autoharp
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« Reply #9 on: 13:51:43, 26-03-2007 »

Peter Griffiths retired only a few years ago . . .
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thompson1780
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« Reply #10 on: 17:34:59, 26-03-2007 »

Right, returning to European Cities....

I liked Prague when I went there 15 odd years ago, but that was just before McDonald's took it over.  But a friend of a friend got drunk there about 7 years ago and woke up in hospital with one leg missing!  Apparently he stumbled into Wilsonova late at night alone and was hit by a car, went unconscious and Czech Medecine could not rebuild him!

Moral: don't get legless in Prague.

Tommo
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« Reply #11 on: 20:10:28, 26-03-2007 »

I don't know Prague. Friends went there and made very impressive pictures of the city (with themselves of course).

I love to go to Italy. I was in Sienna two times. Unfortunately my visits had nothing to do with music, although I hear there is a good music school (and summer music festival of something).
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martle
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« Reply #12 on: 22:29:15, 26-03-2007 »

I haven't been to that many major European cities; but I agree Prague is fabulous (although like Tommo I haven't been there since the introduction of Starbucks), and Barcelona takes a bit of beating.

But if we're talking top slice, for martle it's...

THE FORUM!

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Ian Pace
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« Reply #13 on: 22:33:04, 26-03-2007 »

I do love Paris a lot, where I've spent lots of time, and Budapest, where I've only been once. But perhaps the most beautiful place in the whole of Europe I've been is Granada.

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'These acts of keeping politics out of music, however, do not prevent musicology from being a political act . . .they assure that every apolitical act assumes a greater political immediacy' - Philip Bohlman, 'Musicology as a Political Act'
thompson1780
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« Reply #14 on: 22:43:07, 26-03-2007 »

I used to drive a SKoda Estelle  (OK, OK, get the jokes out now....)

I drove it all the way from West of London to Budapest to see a friend for a holiday.  The heater didn't work, so I had to stuff a towel on the dashboard at night to stop the cold coming in.  And on the E40 on the way home, I managed to get up to 95mph!  (Downhill wih a following wind).  Sadly a Porsche came up behind me and I had to stop trying to overtake a shocked Audi driver and pull in.

Budapest was OK - too sprawling for me (and I was shocked by some of the videos in the shops!) - but still cleaner and more firnedly than London

Tommo
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