I don't know much about new starter violin kits myself.  There seems to be some interesting and useful information on this website: http://www.elidatrading.co.uk/

So-called "factory" violins can be massively improved by a set of decent strings.  They'll be even further improved by a properly fitted bridge and soundpost.  I recommend getting to know your local violin shop.  Even if you end up getting a kit off ebay, I'm sure they'll be happy to recommend good strings, tell you if the bridge is decent enough to start with, check out that the set-up hasn't been knocked around by shipping - and they'll also prove a good source for things like shoulder rests if you need one, and good-quality rosin (which a kit is bound not to contain and can also make a big difference).

Actually, the bow is what gives me greatest pause about these kits.  You can make a good sound on a bad violin if it's set up decently and you have a good bow.  It's virtually impossible to make a good sound on a good violin with a bad bow.  But getting a pernambuco bow may be an expense too far for you at this point?  Do you have a maximum budget for starting out?

What part of the country do you live in, John?  Some of us here may be able to recommend a decent violin shop near you where you can get some advice in person.  And local teachers are likely to advertise at a shop like that as well.

(If you don't want to post stuff like budgets and where you live publicly, feel free to PM me.)

Ho tommo...
How's things?....Just back from a Bruckner 7 rehearsal.

Anyone want to hear Bromley Symphony Orchestra this Saturday? It's a very good orchestra....honest!!

A

Thanks Reiner, yes I see for a little bit more than a Stentor, up to twice the price, could get an instrument with better bow and strings.

Oi A,

try http://r3ok.myforum365.com/index.php?board=25.0

 

Seconding Reiner in his thoughts on investing in an instrument with decent resale value. Even with wind instruments (which I know is a bit off-topic) there's no reason why you shouldn't be able to sell a good second-hand instrument for the price you paid for it, as long as you've looked after it and had it seen to professionally at some stage. And wind instruments (and, er players ) are notorious for not getting better with age!

Ho A!

Sorry I misattributed you earlier as "strina and rei" which I have now changed to "a and rei".  You both talk so much sense about fiddles on here I get you easily confused on this thread.

This saturday is a tad tricky. Sorry.  I'm really glad you've found a good band in London though - you did seem a little worried when you were making the transition down here.

As it happens Tommo will be playing in a Corinthian Chamber Orchestra concert on Friday 25 January - Rossini Semiramide Overture (which just makes me smile so much!) Sibelius Valse Triste (which has the opposite effect), Mendelssohn VC and Sibelius 3.  That church on picadilly, is it St James?

Why are there so many gigs just after Christmas....?

Cheers

Tommo

I think that only applies to instruments that have some years under the belt.....

I would heartily agree on the bow thing though.  A stentor isn't exactly the greatest of violins, but you're not going to make a lot of difference as a beginner by buying anything twice the price.  However, bows are a different matter.  I was really lucky soon after I seriously started the violin, in 1980, to pick up a German factory made bow for £18 in WE Hills, Great Missenden.  Crucial thng was that the weight was right throughout the bow and had a decent bounce point - of course I didn't know that when we bought it, but it was lucky that I found it so when I started learning more advanced bow techniques.

Anyway, the more you spend on a bow, the more chance you have of having a half-decent one, although there is no guarantee.  For more advnaced students, you can get complete rubbish even for £1000 (well maybe that's a bit harsh) and much better for £500 (well maybe that's a bit optimistic - but you get what I mean).  For beginners, you're almost certainly in factory-made land, but it's the same story just at lower prices.

Look for

sticks that are straight when you look down the top ridge of them from heel to tip.

bows where the balance point is about 1/3 up from the heel - mine balances at 26 cm from adjuster tip on a 76cm bow, (and my spare bow at 26cm on a 74cm bow).  To find the balance point, hold your two index fingers out in front of you like you are doing a dalek impression.  Place the bow so it is resting on both.  Bring the two fingers together.  Where they touch, that is your balance point.

springiness - when the bow is wound taught (the stick is not touching the hairs but the stick is still gracefully curved), there is decent springiness.  To test this, (erm how do I describe this), have your bow hold as previously decribed, but also rest the the bow hair itself on your left hand about 1/3 from the tip.  Use your right hand index finger to press the wood and get the bow stick to touch the bow hair (in the bow middle).  Then release - the springier the better.

OK.  All of that is extremely crude (especially the springy test).  And you would be much better off getting a teacher to help you choose.  But in the absence of one, and in the absence of any learnt skills that woudl help you choose, it is a start.

Tommo

Interestingly I seriously considered joining this orchestra when I first came down her tommo !

A

It may be worth looking in the papers too.. after Christmas uneeded pressies perhaps? Also ask one of the violin teachers you are considering, often pupils move on from a beginner's instrument and need to sell it ready for the next..

A