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Author Topic: The Violin and Viola Thread  (Read 10741 times)
martle
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« Reply #345 on: 22:43:17, 11-02-2008 »

were instructed to tune to double-bass harmonics, since he said the latter are unstable in the extreme.

Anyone else have any thoughts on this?

They are unstable, yes, although I wouldn't say in the extreme - or even to a degree most modestly well-adjusted ears could pick up at all, except perhaps in the higher reaches of the spectrum. But unless you're dealing with material that demands tuning precision it matters not a fig compared with the richness and resonance that they give you, particularly natural harmonics of course.
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time_is_now
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« Reply #346 on: 22:55:05, 11-02-2008 »

But unless you're dealing with material that demands tuning precision it matters not a fig compared with the richness and resonance that they give you, particularly natural harmonics of course.
I think his argument was that tuning precision is exactly what you do need in the beginning in order to then have the richness and resonance when the detuned instruments all come together in the actual piece!
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martle
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« Reply #347 on: 22:59:32, 11-02-2008 »

Understood, tinners. But that's a very special case, I'd guess!
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A
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« Reply #348 on: 09:34:15, 12-02-2008 »

I think it is that string players tune their instruments slightly differently depending on what they are playing and who they are playing with.Last night, for example , I was at my orchestra rehearsal and , as usual we tuned to the oboe.

If I were playing in a specialised manner with a harpsichord or other keyboard instrument I would obviously tune to that, maybe lower . But obviously the instruments have to 'match'!

As far as John , or any other beginner is concerned, the tuning is a perfect fifth between the strings on a violin, viola or cello and pefect fourths for the double bass.

Beginners when tuning find it easier to have a keyboard to help but quickly get the hang of feeling when the strings are in tune with each other.

Start on the A, then tune D with the A, then the G with the D then E with the A.... usually works John!!

A
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John W
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« Reply #349 on: 12:08:26, 22-02-2008 »

Oh bother!

Came back from a break in Scotland last week, to find that while away the temperature had plummetted at home. And I'd left the violins in the garage, and the practice 'strad' wasn't in it's case. Brought them in the house and later found that the 'strad' had a badly cracked tailpiece, where the E string fine tuner is  Roll Eyes

I've ordered a replacement, and I'll now have fun setting up the violin. I've watched John the Restorer doing this so I will have a go myself. It's tricky getting the bridge in place. Do members have a set order to doing this? Which string to you start with to start getting the bridge in position? And work through them and 'fiddle about' to keep the bridge vertical?

With all this, my playing is getting nowhere, I've spent more time caring for (or NOT) for the instrument Undecided
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thompson1780
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« Reply #350 on: 15:17:15, 22-02-2008 »

Gosh - tailpiece changes.  They don't happen very often.

When you slacken the strings, you have to be careful that the soundpost does not shift.  The tension in the strings holds the bridge down hard on the belly.  That traps the soundpost between belly and back.

Actually, on some not-so-good instruments, the soundpost is jammed in so it's not a great risk of falling over if the strings are slackened, but you can never be too careful.......

Anyway, here's what to do (or at least what I did when I last changed my tailpiece):

Take off the chinrest

Get the new tailpiece at hand - and ready (that means having a big enough loop of gut to go over the black nobby bit near where you neck goes).

Hold the violin between fingers and thumb - thumb on the belly near the bridge, and fingers on the back underneath.  Press to retain the soundpost in place.

Slacken the strings just enough that you can slip the old tailpiece off the nobby black bit near where your neck goes.  The bridge will just fall over.

With one hand, still, try to get the strings out of the old tailpiece, and try to get them into the new one.  If you can be very still, place the fiddle down somewhere, and use your other hand.

When the strings are in the tailpiece holes again, hold the violin firmly again, and get the tailpiece onto the black nobby bit.  Then tighten the strings, enough to keep the tailpiece on the nobby bit, but not massively.

Slot the bridge back where it was (there will be marks from the feet).  Make sure the bridge is perpendicular to the belly.  It should not lean back towards the tailpiece or forward towards the fingerboard.

Tighten strings apropriately.  (Sorry John - it's all that tuning again).

As the gut of the new tailpiece stretches, you will need to keep tightening the strings.  All will go flat.  (It's not quite as bad as new pirastoro strings.... Wink)

Keep you violin somewhere where the temperature is around coolish room temperature, and it needs to be not too dry.  I used to put a pot of water near my violin case, but that really is a bit unnecessary if you have a well ventilated house.

Hope that helps!

Tommo
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John W
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« Reply #351 on: 16:07:47, 22-02-2008 »

Thanks Tommo,

I thought the 'black nobby bit' was called the button?  Smiley

Snag! The tailpiece I ordered is just that, no loop of gut or whatever it's made off. What are the chances that I can remove, and use, the loop off the old tailpiece....  Undecided

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thompson1780
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« Reply #352 on: 16:46:18, 22-02-2008 »

Very easy.  Just unscrew from the old tailpiece, and screw into the new.  You will have to put the fiddle down carefully whilst you do this.....

Tommo
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owain
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« Reply #353 on: 20:01:53, 22-02-2008 »

You can't assume there will be clear marks on the body from the feet of the bridge, especially on an instrument which has been cleaned recently.  So before you remove it, dab a spot of rosin dust (or preferably chalk dust if you have chalk handy) beside a corner of each foot.

The tailgut might have screws on, but some older ones just have a couple of knots holding it in place, in which case you won't be able to remove it other than by cutting it and you will need to get a new one!

It might sound obvious, but make sure you reposition the bridge the right way around, too - the E string side is lower.  And the back of the bridge, the tailpiece side, is the side that should be perpendicular to the body, while the front is slightly convex.
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John W
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« Reply #354 on: 22:16:18, 22-02-2008 »

Thanks Tommo and Owain.

You can't assume there will be clear marks on the body from the feet of the bridge, especially on an instrument which has been cleaned recently.  So before you remove it, dab a spot of rosin dust (or preferably chalk dust if you have chalk handy) beside a corner of each foot.

Right, although it's probably over 70 years old the 'strad' is very clean, just slight abrasion where a previous bridge was sitting, so it could be very clean under this bridge

Tommo, when John was re-setting the older Maidstone the soundpost stayed firm, very firm, but with the other I'll have to be careful. I can just see John's face if I turn up in Leamington with the soundpost rattling about inside. Undecided

The tailgut might have screws on, but some older ones just have a couple of knots holding it in place, in which case you won't be able to remove it other than by cutting it and you will need to get a new one!

The bit I can see is very shiny so maybe it's new  Roll Eyes

Quote
It might sound obvious, but make sure you reposition the bridge the right way around, too - the E string side is lower.  And the back of the bridge, the tailpiece side, is the side that should be perpendicular to the body, while the front is slightly convex.

I remember John saying about 'the right way round'. It is currently nice and perpendicular but actually the top looks a little bit twisted back by the E string (while the other violin has it's bridge top slightly twisted back by the G string).

Do kids learning have the same problems I have?  Cheesy
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owain
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« Reply #355 on: 22:49:53, 22-02-2008 »

Do kids learning have the same problems I have?  Cheesy
Well mine are always under strict instructions: "if you think something is wrong, don't try and fix it yourself, and don't let your dad try either!"  Wink

If a bridge has definitely shifted away from its correct position, it's no problem to pull it back again while strung up.  Hold the violin in your lap, scroll upwards, grasp the bridge with both thumbs and forefingers while using the others to hold the centre bouts of the instrument, and verrrrry gently ease it in the necessary direction.  (A good tip for doing this, and for anything else where you don't want to slip and make a big movement, is keep your elbows close to your body.  I got that one while (briefly) learning to actually fit bridges, to stop me from slicing my thumb with a scalpel...)

However, whether the bridge actually is out of position is hard to tell from your description.  The correct position does not necessarily look as if the rear is actually perpendicular, because the asymmetry creates a slight optical illusion.  If the bridge has been shaped so that the E string side is slightly thinner overall than the bass side, then it might appear to be leaning back even though it is not.
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A
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« Reply #356 on: 23:32:08, 22-02-2008 »

Quote
Do kids learning have the same problems I have?

I agree with you owain... I used to tell my pupils, 'Don't touch a thing if anything goes wrong over the week'... and also John.... they were told to put their instruments in a safe place ( not a garage) in the case !!!!!

 Grin Grin

Hope all is going well after all that super advice from the chaps!!

A
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thompson1780
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« Reply #357 on: 09:58:06, 23-02-2008 »

Thanks owain for filling in the gaps I left.  But special thanks for making me smile with this:

and don't let your dad try either!"  Wink

Tommo

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A
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« Reply #358 on: 08:39:34, 25-02-2008 »

John... do tell us, have you succeeded? I wait with eager anticipation to hear your news ! Roll Eyes

A
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thompson1780
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« Reply #359 on: 10:50:38, 25-02-2008 »

A - he's using all his hands to do the restringing...  don't expect him to type as well! Smiley

Tommo
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