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Author Topic: The Violin and Viola Thread  (Read 10741 times)
Reiner Torheit
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« Reply #315 on: 09:46:14, 31-01-2008 »

Ah, one of the (many, many) jokes told against viola-players is an advert that reads: "For sale: Viola, German C19th, with newly rehaired pernambuco bow. Sale to retirement after 20 years in the Opera-House orchestra.  Professionally tuned in 2004."

There's no magic or mystery in tuning.  A good-quality instrument should hold its tuning quite well (unless it's been dropped or otherwise manhandled, or there's been a violent change in temperature/humidity) so you can probably leave the pegs alone, and just use the fine-tuners.  Learning to use them is part of learning to play - don't be afraid to get your sleeves up Smiley  Practice tuning the strings until they are "dead-on" with the electronic tuning gizmo.  Does it emit a tone you have to match?  Some of the more high-end models even tell you when you've "arrived" at the correct pitch.  Personally I like to tune with the pegs, though - I think it's the Luddite in me? Smiley  As I mentioned earlier in this topic... if you do tune the pegs, make sure you are cranking the peg of the string involved (I broke a string a while ago, by not watching carefully and trying to answer the phone at the same time).  BTW it's handy to have a spare set of strings in the case, because one will break eventually.  Ebay dealers have much better prices on brand-name strings than you will be offered in music-shops, especially if you buy a full set Smiley
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"I was, for several months, mutely in love with a coloratura soprano, who seemed to me to have wafted straight from Paradise to the stage of the Odessa Opera-House"
-  Leon Trotsky, "My Life"
strinasacchi
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« Reply #316 on: 11:18:47, 31-01-2008 »

Tuning can feel very awkward for a beginner who is already feeling uncomfortable trying to hold the violin with the left hand free.  Don't try to use the fine tuner while playing the string until you are really confident that you won't drop the violin.  Instead, play the string; decide if it's flat or sharp; use your right hand to move the fine tuner no more than a half-turn in either direction (you'll get a better idea how much the fine tuner adjusts as you get used to it); then play the string again and decide if you've overshot the mark, if you haven't gone far enough, or if you've got it right.  You don't have to put the bow down if you grasp the frog with your 2nd, 3rd and 4th fingers against the palm, and form a circle with the thumb and first finger in front of the stick (closer to your face) - this is a position you can use for pizzicato as well (I think there may be a description of it earlier on the thread).

Using the pegs presents less of a chance of dropping the violin, but it's a tricky thing to do one-handed.  Once you loosen the peg, as you turn it you need to simultaneously push it back into the peg box slightly or it will gradually loosen to the extent where it won't hold its place.

So usually we end up turning the peg with only the thumb and one finger, while grappling the pegbox with the other fingers.  Depending on the angle at which the peg is set this can feel very easy or be nearly impossible, and if you watch violinists tuning you can see they put their hand in all sorts of positions to get around this.  If you're lucky with the peg angle, you can generally get your left hand into a good position on the D and G pegs with your palm facing you, and on the A peg with your palm turned out to the right.

Sometimes you see violinists bending down and using their leg as a stabiliser, so they get a better grip on the peg yet still have a way of pushing the peg into the box while turning it.  This only works on the D and G strings.

It's not a bad idea in the beginning to put the bow down, stand the violin upright in your lap (strings facing you - and obviously you have to be sitting down for this) and turn the pegs while plucking the strings.  It's much easier to control what you're doing this way.  You'll never get the strings as impeccably in tune this way as you would when using the bow, as plucking distorts the pitch a bit, but it's a useful way of dealing with stubborn pegs or coping when starting out.

If you're finding it tricky, it's worth considering getting fine tuners on all four strings for a while.

It sound like your fiddle's in pretty good shape, but if you find the pegs are too sticky there's an ointment made by Hill that will help get them moving.  It's not called anything special - something like "A Preparation for Pegs So That They May Turn with Greater Facility."  My teachers always called it "peg dope."   Roll Eyes  And if the pegs are too loose, a light smear of ordinary white chalk will give them as much friction as they'll need.

One more word of advice - by all means use your tuning machine for each string individually, but after you tune, try playing each pair of adjacent strings together so you can grow accustomed both to the feeling and the sound of it.  Just as with playing a single string, you want a clean, even sound on both strings.  Don't worry if it feels and sounds terrible in the beginning, but do persist - you'll want to play double-stops eventually, and tuning well requires being able to do this, so the sooner you get used to it the better.  (Although your machine is probably in equal temperament, which means the fifths won't quite be pure - but it'll be useful to hear the beats - and that's a whole other can of worms you don't need to open just yet...)
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A
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« Reply #317 on: 09:11:42, 01-02-2008 »

A, your new avatar has an, er, interesting technique....  In addition to everything else, he's stopping the strings with his left thumb!

(Actually, a teacher once suggested to me, in the Bach chaconne, in the middle of the first long arpeggiated bit where there's a chord that goes a-a'-c''-f'' (I hope I've got my '''''s right), that I play the lower a with my left thumb.  Not being Jimi Hendrix I couldn't do it.)


Yes, but what a wonderful sound he is making!!

I remember at the RAM being encouraged to use my thumb on the violin occasionally but it felt far too strange. On the guitar however it is most useful and I used the thumb for claw hammer accompaniments for folk music fairly often, especially in running bass lines.
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John W
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« Reply #318 on: 13:38:08, 01-02-2008 »

A,

It's quite funny that the subject of 'thumb' has come up. I do have rather short fingers and with the violin/foam resting on my collar-bone I am really struggling to play A, B, C on the G string, so I'm trying to position the violin more on my shoulder so I'm not twisting my left hand so much to reach the G string. That hand/wrist has been hurting a bit so I need to be able to play the G string more comfortably. While struggling to reach that G string I did look at my thumb once and think 'why are we not using that!?'  Cheesy

So, where have I got to? Well I've got as far as playing two octaves from G on the open string up to G on the E string, not greatly in tune (poor intonation is it?) but at least my ears recognise that and I'll know when it's getting better, I hope.

I think I'll now put away the DVD for a while because after playing the octave the DVD tutor has in the space of a minute gone straight from a little exercise to playing a tune, but I'm going to need quite a bit of time to play scales and get in tune with the finger positions, and get familiar with where notes are before I can practice reading a line of music, which brings me to what I saw on the wiki page earlier :



wiki mentions what I saw on some kids' violins on ebay, bits of tape or tippex on finger positions, I'd like to think I can avoid that and use my ears with my fingers rather than my eyes, anyway at the moment my eyes are either on the bow or looking in the mirror  Smiley


John


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Reiner Torheit
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« Reply #319 on: 14:22:30, 01-02-2008 »

That hand/wrist has been hurting a bit so I need to be able to play the G string more comfortably. While struggling to reach that G string I did look at my thumb once and think 'why are we not using that!?'  Cheesy

Hi John!

Make a conscious effort to move the elbow of your left arm (leaving the hand where it is!) inwards, so that it is hovering under the middle of the instument or ideally even a bit further in that that.  This will give your fingers a much fairer chance of getting onto the bottom string (you should notice a real "shunt" is possible in that direction if you've positioned the elbow correctly) with the facility they'll need later...  and take the strain off your wrist too Smiley

Congrats on doing scales - sounds like you're practicing hard!  Good boy, Gold Star for Effort!

Smiley
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"I was, for several months, mutely in love with a coloratura soprano, who seemed to me to have wafted straight from Paradise to the stage of the Odessa Opera-House"
-  Leon Trotsky, "My Life"
A
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« Reply #320 on: 17:08:15, 01-02-2008 »

Can I suggest that you should be able to see your elbow about the middle of your chest when holding the violin. If you are able to get it this far under, you will find that reaching the G string is not such a problem. Mind you, that is the wrong word really, you shouldn't be reaching, your fingers should still hover over the notes on the G string and there should be no tension in them if you are to play easily on this low string... You seem to be doing well John, I would agree, try to use your ears for intonation not bits of sticky paper (useful for little ones who are, let's be honest, a bit lazy  at using their ears and tuning accordingly)
Don't forget to use a mirror to check the straightness of the bow ( always parallel with the bridge) or ask the Mrs to help perhaps!

 Keep going.... it's worth it  Grin

A
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John W
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« Reply #321 on: 11:20:53, 03-02-2008 »

Not practised this weekend but had a go at tuning on Friday Roll Eyes

I have one of those little electronic gadgets that you clip to a peg (any peg) and it responds to the vibration of the violin, little lights tell you if a string is in tune (green light) or out of tune (a series if red lights sharp or flat). I think because the violin is in the garage, where the temperature is only about 16-18degC, that the G and D strings were sharp. Well, what a pantomime. With the advice from strina/reiner I tuned the G string (didn't quite get the green light) then I started on the D string but while grappling I must have touched the G peg and it shot out and landed on the floor! So I had to 're-thread' the G peg and try and wind it on. Being previously unfamiliar with pegs it took me a while to figure out how to set this so that the thread wound over the bit that goes through the hole. Then, getting the peg to stay in position was a struggle Undecided

The pegs are slippy. I can understand that they need a bit of friction to hold them in their place. I had a good look at the G peg which gave me most trouble and the section which remains in contact with the hole in the pegbox is worn down, very smooth and shiny, the violin is about 100 years old and these might be the original pegs or well-used ones at least, rubbed smooth, as is the peghole too I'm sure.

So, those shiny sections, can they be given a little scratch or two just to give them some friction? I did that to the G peg just so I could get the darn thing to 'bite' and stop slipping. The e-string has a fine tuner and that was easy to tune, I expect the narrow string goes less out of tune? I'm frightened of breaking the pegbox, it feels so fragile when I'm pressing the pegs so hard.

I see there's always sets of fine tuners on e-bay for a few pounds. I might invest in a set of them, as strina suggested, and I can visit John the Restorer, he said he'd be glad to help me with any problems.


« Last Edit: 20:46:00, 03-02-2008 by John W » Logged
A
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« Reply #322 on: 23:26:45, 03-02-2008 »

John,

Use your ear for tuning! ( sing the notes up the fifth from one string to another, you will be surprised how this helps!!
You will notice if you listen very carefully that the vibrations settle when the perfect fifth is found, it is even and no 'movement'.

For slippy pegs, use chalk or pencil... just move the peg a tiny bit out, rub where the shiny bit is obvious and put back again firmly, pressing in with reasonable pressure.

Fine tuners are good, but usually only needed on the higher strings where there is such a small turn needed to get a string in tune... any decent music shop should have them. The thinner strings need to be moved less as you say but the fine tuning needs to be very accurate with such small movements!

You could always take your violin to be set up with a new tailpiece with the tuners already fixed in, and maybe get the pegs fixed ( new ones tend to be expensive though so watch out!)

Once the strings are in tune they should really stay more or less in tune but the thought of leaving the poor violin in the cold garage is worrying! Also , even if you don't , moving it from house to garage is also bad for tuning. Playing in churches always has this problem... the string instruments need tuning more than usual.

Best, A Grin
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John W
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« Reply #323 on: 00:27:09, 04-02-2008 »

Thanks A,

You could always take your violin to be set up with a new tailpiece with the tuners already fixed in, and maybe get the pegs fixed ( new ones tend to be expensive though so watch out!)

John the Restorer could help me put the tuners on my old tailpiece - it's a nice one with a Mother-of-Pearl insert  Smiley
and for the slippy pegs he told me today there's a 'peg paste' that one can get.

Quote
..the thought of leaving the poor violin in the cold garage is worrying!

I wondered that; the garage is part of the house, the boiler's in there and a bedroom above, I don't think the temperature gets below 16degC but I'll check. It's certainly not damp.

Quote
Use your ear for tuning! ( sing ......

I wish I COULD sing music, I mean I CAN sing but I can't sing/read music. I learned to read music for the recorder quite well (30 years ago) but never got into practicing singing a line of music, somehow my brain didn't learn the two things at the same time. That would certainly be useful to be able to do since I'm now learning an instrument that has no holes or frets  Cheesy

I wonder if I can find a violin teacher who would teach me to sing music too...

Quote
.... sing the notes up the fifth from one string to another, you will be surprised how this helps!!
You will notice if you listen very carefully that the vibrations settle when the perfect fifth is found, it is even and no 'movement'.

I'm losing you now A, I don't know music theory either, but I think by fifth you mean jumping five notes like from G to D and then to E and to A on the strings. It really would help me if I learned to sing the notes on a line of music. I have a keyboard so that could be a way to learn/practice singing notes Huh

John W
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« Reply #324 on: 08:48:16, 04-02-2008 »

Thanks A,

.... sing the notes up the fifth from one string to another, you will be surprised how this helps!!

I'm losing you now A, I don't know music theory either, but I think by fifth you mean jumping five notes like from G to D and then to E and to A on the strings. It really would help me if I learned to sing the notes on a line of music. I have a keyboard so that could be a way to learn/practice singing notes Huh

John W

I mean sing , for example , from G to D ... ie G A B C D (just like a scale) then compare the two ends of your 'sing'... the G and the D... it usually confirms the tuning if you are having difficulty. Then try singing D E F# G A ..BUT if you have a keyboard, use that!!

A
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John W
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« Reply #325 on: 11:26:31, 04-02-2008 »

Thanks A,

Right, yes I can sing a scale G, A, B, C.... so that should be OK. If I can clear out more space in the garage then the keyboard could be set up there too...

I would like to be able to sing more than just scales so that when I come to a new piece of practice music for the violin I can read/hum the tune first in my head. I suppose if I keep the violin in tune and practice playing fifths (not just the GDAE) then my ears are going to get better and that will help me. My music reading is so poor I'll have to print out a picture of a stave with EGBDF and FACE and lines above/below Roll Eyes
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« Reply #326 on: 13:43:18, 04-02-2008 »

I think you are doing well John, keep at it!! Practise singing intervals, say from D to F# or G to B etc, it gets easier!!!

The keyboard is the answer though in my opinion!!

A Grin Grin
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John W
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« Reply #327 on: 20:00:42, 07-02-2008 »

As well as trying to learn to play the violin ( Cheesy) I've taken more interest in the instrument's history etc reading a few articles about the old masters, about Strad copies, and other copies of the 19thC, and continue to browse the ebay violin pages with fascination.

I noticed an 'authentic baroque' violin being bid for, the seller stated it had an original baroque neck. Now, I take that to mean the neck is straight, sort of flat or in line with the front of the instrument, not angled slightly back like the violin I have. The photos on the ebay page did not include a side on photo which would show this, but one photo seems to suggest to me that the instrument's neck does 'lean back' a bit, so maybe it's been replaced?

Am I just being suspicious? What do any experts here think?

The violin is sold now, but maybe the page here is still viewable, scroll down past the ads.


John W
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« Reply #328 on: 22:25:56, 07-02-2008 »

Strina is the expert on Baroque violins I suggest John. It may , or may not , interest you to know I have what I am sure is an Albani violin dated 1697. It is very fat bellied and the varnish is poor ( I believe the latter is common with this make)
It used to belong to Martin Milner ( leader of the Halle in the 60s 70s ...) -a friend of mine - who borrowed it back when his Strad was in for repair!


A
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John W
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« Reply #329 on: 22:48:07, 07-02-2008 »

Strina is the expert on Baroque violins I suggest John. It may , or may not , interest you to know I have what I am sure is an Albani violin dated 1697. It is very fat bellied and the varnish is poor ( I believe the latter is common with this make)


There have been one or two 'very old' items on ebay recently, though authenticity of labels always is an issue and they do not always reach high bids.

I remember seeing my grandad's fiddle when I was young, it had a label that identified it as Italian and I think the date was 1847. The back was one-piece and beautiful, the front varnish was totally wrecked, like fine old crusty blisters.

Quote
It used to belong to Martin Milner ( leader of the Halle in the 60s 70s ...) -a friend of mine - who borrowed it back when his Strad was in for repair!

It's good that you have some history with it, A. There was a violin on ebay recently from a member of the London Mozart Players, it wasn't very old though.


Your Albani should keep it's value A. I have seen items > 10k on sites. I'm not sure what restoration can be usefully done on front varnish without affecting value.


John
« Last Edit: 22:57:32, 07-02-2008 by John W » Logged
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